Welcome to “
Cookbook of the Week.
This is a segment where I showcase cookbooks that stand out as unique, user-friendly, or particularly meaningful to me. Although locating specific recipes online can be handy for immediate needs, browsing through an outstanding cookbook offers a distinct kind of enchantment.
Yet another Italian cookbook—true. However, I assure you, this one is worth checking out.
Milk Street Backroads Italy
Is a cookbook that might challenge some of your “rules” when it comes to preparing Italian cuisine. Regularly stirring polenta? Incorporating thick slices of mozzarella into your eggplant parmesan? Piling meatballs high into Italian wedding soup? Despite this, I’ll likely keep adding
mini meatballs in everything
This newest addition from Milk Street has managed to do something surprising: it has reignited my interest in Italian cuisine, presenting it to me with fresh eyes once more.
Some information about the book
This newly released cookbook by Christopher Kimball and J.M. Hirsch came out on April 15 and offers freshness beyond just its publication date. The title gives you a clue about what to expect.
Backroads Italy
What you’re about to discover is an unfamiliar facet of the nation’s culinary landscape. Many have ventured into this territory before, and rightfully so—Italian fare tends to be straightforward to prepare, delectable, and fairly consistent when replicated in various locations. Unlike others, this cookbook stands out by presenting a collection of recipes likely unknown to most readers (they were new to me) along with genuinely useful advice throughout.
Regarding the meals you believed you were thoroughly familiar with,
Milk Street
Backroads Italy
presents you with a novel approach to create it. An innovative method that doesn’t leave you feeling annoyed by the alteration, but rather captivated by the potential of discovering a different preferred option.
It should be noted that these so-called “new” techniques are not really new at all.
new
They have been used for centuries. However, these techniques are now being introduced to us from various parts of Italy, thanks to Italian chefs who collaborated and taught Kimball and Hirsch. Occasionally, adjustments inspired by scientific insights or modifications aimed at simplifying processes for the typical American kitchen were made.
An excellent cookery book offering a fresh perspective on Italian cuisine.
I must confess, I typically find too many narratives in cookbooks somewhat tedious—as much as I prefer diving right into the recipes—yet the tales within this particular cookbook captured my interest almost each time. Rather than wandering stories (where I often lose patience), these passages are concise and purposeful. They offer essential details about what will appear on the following pages and explain how they differ from your usual expectations.
I particularly loved learning about the No-Fry Neapolitan Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane), traditional polenta, and the Milanese method for preparing quick-cooked risotto. Every recipe typically includes a time-consuming yet seemingly obligatory step. The eggplant needs to be coated in an egg and breadcrumb mixture before frying. Polenta requires constant stirring and enhancing with ample amounts of cheese and butter. Meanwhile, making risotto involves persistent and steady stirring as you gradually add chicken broth over time.
Milk Street
Backroads Italy
demonstrated that not only can you skip the bothersome procedures, but the dish could end up being improved because of it.
Although Italian cuisine frequently gains recognition for rich pasta dishes smothered in tomato sauce and, naturally, pizza, these writers take pleasure in uncovering lesser-known Italian recipes—a zest that is quite infectious.
I’m all for the concept of preparing a herb-filled soup rather than one packed with meat, substituting chickpeas for spaghetti in my vongole recipe, or opting out of tomatoes altogether and serving rigatoni smothered in vibrant green broccoli sauce. Let me clarify: This cookbook does include plenty of traditional pasta dishes, risottos, focaccias, and pizzas. However, embrace the unexpected variations found along these side paths. Trust me; you’ll find joy in exploring them.
The meal I prepared this week
I spent days browsing through the recipes in this cookbook, frequently pausing to admire an enticing photo or scan an ingredient list. However, my attention always returned to page 179, where Rigatoni con Salsa di Broccoli caught my eye. The combination of the velvety green sauce paired with large rigatoni noodles and oversized broccoli florets proved too tempting to resist. Furthermore, the recipe called for just ten readily available ingredients, making it seem quite approachable.
The sauce primarily consists of discarded broccoli stems mixed with essential seasonings. These components are combined to create an intensely green-colored sauce, which is then mixed with boiled rigatoni and steamed broccoli florets. This dish follows a straightforward preparation method, further simplified by utilizing just one pot of boiling water throughout the entire process. I found this approach convenient as it eliminated the hassle of handling multiple utensils and the subsequent cleanup involved.
The moment I smelled the sauce coming from the blender, I realized there wouldn’t be any leftovers. With just one taste, I was utterly amazed; this meal is shockingly delightful. While the broccoli stands out as intended—the main attraction—the real magic lies within the complex layers of the sauce. Tiny but potent elements like capers, garlic, and lemon zest are perfectly mixed together, enhancing each other without overpowering the palate. This recipe poses quite a challenge. It might lead my area to face a shortage of broccoli soon enough.
Where can you purchase the book?
You can receive a 36% discount when purchasing the hardcover version.
Milk Street Backroads Italy
from
Milk Street’s online store
, compared to the
hardcover
At other online stores. However, think about the more nuanced
ebook
For an even more affordable price. I’ll award additional imaginary points if you also reach out to your nearby physical bookstore.
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