On any given evening at Rosie Kellett’s East London warehouse, you could come across about ten roommates gathered around a worn-out kitchen table, sharing plates of chickpea stew, with candles glowing in repurposed jam jars and music playing softly in the background. If you’re fortunate, there may be a “late plate” in the refrigerator — an unspoken assurance that regardless of what the night brings, a warm meal awaits.
dinner
It will be waiting for you at home with your name on it.
It seems similar to the kind of collective lifestyle that could temporarily thrive in a university apartment share. However, this setup is distinct. The household operates using a pooled fund system, a
cooking
Rota and an unwritten principle of mutual support — a framework that has silently emerged as a guide for young adults aiming to create an affordable, fulfilling life in a city that appears progressively unfriendly towards them.
I relocated to the warehouse during a very tumultuous period in my life,” Kellett explains. “I had just gone through quite a difficult breakup and had been searching for accommodation for several months. I was about ready to surrender when living in a warehouse seemed like my final option.
She wasn’t anticipating finding a place to call home. However, after meeting her new housemates—10 unfamiliar faces who skipped formalities and immediately questioned her culinary abilities at the shared dining table—it became clear this would be no ordinary residence. “Needless to say, it was quite daunting; yet, as they detailed their cooperative lifestyle involving cooking meals together, dividing chores, and more,”
food
, my ears perked up,” she remembers. “The idea that my monthly living costs would only amount to £100, covering all my meals, toiletries, and cleaning supplies, brought me great comfort and relief.”
It wasn’t merely the financial relief she required. Kellett states that “living communally has been the most beneficial choice I’ve made over the past ten years, and I’m uncertain if I would continue to reside in the city without it.”
Currently, Kellett works as a food writer, hosts supper clubs, and has authored a book.
In for Dinner
– a new
cookbook
That embraces precisely this type of communal, comforting, easy-going dining. She has also amassed a considerable fan base.
Instagram
(303,000 and growing), where she shares crowd-pleasing
recipes
, featuring guides and snapshots of her daily experiences in the warehouse.
A recent appearance on Channel 4 showed
Sunday Brunch
reached yet another unforeseen checkpoint in a path that started, somewhat unusually, as an actor. Preparing food for many people wasn’t part of the blueprint — however, amidst serving extra portions, chickpea stews, and dumpling banquets, it turned into a passion.
Kitchen tables and tardy dishes
A usual evening at the warehouse could include Pier’s spicy curry, Virginia’s bean stews, or Wojciech’s pantry pasta (“the finest I’ve tasted and something I eagerly anticipate throughout the week,” remarks Kellett). “Supper tends to be quite laid-back; I enjoy lighting some candles regardless of the event and playing great tunes,” she explains. On certain nights, the designated chef may begin their preparations solo, whereas other evenings see the kitchen bustling with conversation, minor tasks getting accomplished, and cold beverages uncapped.
Famous dishes abound, but one particularly notable event was pierogi night. This tradition started when some Polish friends visited. To express gratitude towards the warehouse for hosting them, these visitors prepared an enormous pierogi dinner. “They commenced early in the day,” recalls Kellett, “with one of their mothers offering guidance via FaceTime. They crafted both the dough and fillings before spending the entire afternoon meticulously forming each piece.”
dumplings
I believe they ultimately produced slightly more than 200 pierogi. Our kitchen table was blanketed with those perfectly filled little dumplings!
Once the meal was ready, they cooked everything by boiling and then frying them in butter until they turned golden brown. “For our feast,” she explains, “we enjoyed the pierogi accompanied by caramelized onions, sour cream, sauerkraut, and freshly chopped chives.” She reflects, saying, “Never had I consumed so many dumplings at once, and doubtfully will again anytime soon.” Kellett assisted with cooking, making an impression significant enough that it spurred her to create a new recipe based on this experience.
In for Dinner
.
The gentle enchantment of an evening meal
Kellett asserts that, when given the option, she would prefer to remain at home and cook. This preference does not stem from obligation; rather, for her, converting basic components into a dish for those dear to her remains “magical.” She explains, “Deriving pleasure from elevating modest elements into an appetizing fare and subsequently nourishing my beloved with this food brings me immense satisfaction. The entire process continues to feel enchanting and profoundly soothing to me.”
“Nothing is more satisfying to me than pulling together a meal from what is left in the fridge or the cupboards, transforming a few unassuming ingredients into a meal,” she adds.
That “first part” – choosing ingredients, designing a meal and bringing it to life – is what she misses when dining out. And it seems she’s not alone. Kellett sees a broader trend unfolding: a move away from splashy
restaurants
And toward leisurely, deliberate dinners at home.
You could easily spend $35 Canadian dollars and dedicate a few hours in your kitchen preparing a meal for six people. Then, everyone can leisurely gather around your dining table for as long as needed to chat at their own speed,” she explains. “In contrast, heading out to a restaurant would cost each person twice as much and they’d typically require you to vacate the table within two hours.
It’s not that she doesn’t value restaurants. Quite the opposite. “Now more than ever, the
hospitality industry
As they grapple with escalating expenses and vanishing profit margins at every turn, coupled with a severe staff shortage,” she explains. However, for numerous individuals, this financial predicament cannot be overlooked. Kellett elaborates, “The cost of living crisis has significantly reduced everyone’s discretionary spending, making it feasible to dine out just a couple of times per week several years back but perhaps only once a month now.”
Serving six people with £25 per week
One of the most astounding features of Kellett’s warehouse existence is the budget: £25 weekly per individual for meals. This sums up to £150 altogether, which must cover dinners for six people over seven days along with additional expenses. When calculated, this amounts to just a few pounds per meal, not counting the savings from using leftover lunches.
The home benefits from relying on robust, cost-effective basics. ” Beans serve as an excellent budget-conscious choice for crafting meals, just like canned fish and jarred preserves—essentially all your essential pantry items! ” she explains.
A beloved crowd-favorite? It’s her confit tomato and chickpea stew. “In my experience, this recipe consistently impresses everyone and checks every box when it comes to ease, cost-effectiveness, taste, and portion size,” she explains. “The best part is that almost no actual cooking is involved—you simply combine all the ingredients in an oven-safe pot, mix them up, and bake for about three hours—that’s really all there is to it.” This end result is not only plant-based and free from gluten but also very economical and rich in protein.
Other popular large-scale recipes frequently played on repeat at the warehouse include her Sri Lankan dahl with coconut sambal (“inexpensive, highly adaptable, simple, and suitable for almost all dietary preferences”) and substantial oven-dependent meals such as spinach, ricotta, and tomato lasagna or gnocchi alla Sorrentina.
Lessons for the first-time host
For people who feel overwhelmed at the thought of cooking for many guests, Kellett offers practical guidance: “Prepare in advance, choose a dish you’re confident about mastering, and don’t hesitate to seek assistance.”
She comments, “No one wins an award for being the most stressed-out chef or attempting the toughest recipe. Personally, I strongly believe that the host plays a crucial role in establishing the atmosphere for the night; thus, if you’re at ease, your guests will likely feel more comfortable as well.”
Don’t hesitate to let others help out. “Many people enjoy having small tasks in the kitchen and feeling helpful, so include your friends in those final details and use the opportunity to chat.”
Investing where it counts
Kellett’s attitude towards shopping is also straightforward. Invest a bit extra in areas that count – and be aware of places where you can cut costs. ”
Olive oil
Being at the top of my list,” she explains, “I utilize it extensively in my culinary endeavors. The distinction between extra virgin olive oil and a blended variety becomes quite apparent when tasted, observed, and smelled. Investing in the pricier option is truly worthwhile as the disparity in flavor and quality is stark—like comparing night to day.
This applies to canned tomatoes as well (“there’s a significant difference between the most affordable ones and those priced slightly higher”). Additionally, when your budget permits, consider using jars of beans instead of cans (“they offer superior texture and flavor which can significantly elevate a dish”).
It’s an practical approach based not on elitism, but on getting the most out of your components.
The future is communal
Kellett looks beyond mere budgets and meal plans. She views communal living as much more than an economic solution; it represents a deeper, more meaningful lifestyle. “The other day, I came across this disheartening statement claiming that the ideal consumer is someone who lives solo,” she shares. “It seems like late-stage capitalism encourages each of us to own individual items instead of pooling resources or dividing responsibilities.”
In a society that frequently promotes individualism—a culture where each person has their own separate fridge, single olive oil container, and solitary shelf—her warehouse seems like an understated act of defiance. “Living well in London (or any major metropolis) is becoming increasingly challenging, yet by fostering community and pooling our resources, labor, and responsibilities, we can uncover glimpses of hope.”
She emphasizes that beginning modestly is essential. “If you reside with roommates or friends, consider establishing a practice where everyone cooks and shares one meal per week collectively, perhaps alternating who prepares it,” she suggests. “Should you wish to share living expenses without fully committing, you might initiate a shared fund specifically for purchasing weekly necessities such as olive oil, salt, pepper, toothpaste, among others.”
It always struck me as absurd that in a communal area, each person would have their own bottle of olive oil, a dedicated shelf in the refrigerator, and multiple copies of the same item being utilized simultaneously!
Her point is clear: ” Sharing forms the foundation of community life.”
Spaghetti with citrus-marinated mackerel topped with pangrattato
This dish came into being, as many great recipes do, due to necessity. During my early twenties when I lived with my first partner, our meals primarily consisted of BLTs and variations of this pasta. Canned fish and dry pasta were budget-friendly options back then, making this meal a regular choice at dinnertime. Perfect for those who lack funds or free time, it still delivers robust flavors. Composed entirely of basic kitchen essentials, you can have it ready in under thirty minutes.
Serves
: 6
Ingredients
:
200g stale bread
100 ml of extra virgin olive oil
1 finely chopped clove of garlic
500g dried spaghetti
4 × 125g tins of mackerel in olive oil, drained and broken up
1 jar of 180 grams of capers, drained and finely minced
2 tsp chilli flakes
Grate and squeeze the zest and juice from 3 lemons.
A big cluster of flat-leaf parsley with both the leaves and stems minced finely.
Seasalt and crushed black pepper
Method
:
1. Start by preparing the pangrattato: process the bread in a food processor until you have breadcrumbs.
2. In a skillet, set to medium heat, warm one tablespoon of the olive oil and cook the breadcrumbs along with the garlic until they turn golden brown and become crispy. Feel free to go as dark as you prefer, even slightly charred if that’s your taste.
3. Boil the spaghetti in heavily salted water until it reaches an al dente consistency.
4. In a large mixing bowl, mix together the mackerel, capers, chili flakes, lemon zest and juice, most of the parsley, and half of the olive oil until well combined.
5. Drain the pasta, saving some of the cooking liquid, and then combine it with the mackerel mixture.
6. Stir thoroughly, incorporating some starchy pasta water and additional olive oil as needed if the mixture appears too thick. The final result should be a shiny sauce that coats the noodles evenly.
7. Arrange on a big serving dish, garnished with the pangrattato and the remaining chopped parsley.
Potato soup with salt and vinegar flavor
If you’ve tried making my pierogi recipe from the Dinner chapter in my cookbook, you’ll be aware that it’s a laborious process with great rewards. While I can’t always spare the hours needed for crafting homemade dumplings, I frequently yearn for their taste. When those cravings hit, I turn to this soup instead. It captures all the essence of pierogi but requires only a small portion of your time and comes served in a comforting broth perfect for a midday meal.
Serves
: 6-8
Ingredients
:
1kg baby potatoes
3 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
3 big white onions, chopped
1 tsp sea salt
½ teaspoon of ground black pepper
1 litre vegetable stock
1 tablespoon of white wine vinegar
1 medium-sized bunch of dill, coarsely chopped
200g sauerkraut
150ml sour cream
1 moderate-sized bundle of chives, thoroughly minced
Method
:
1. Cook the potatoes in salted water over high heat until they become soft; this usually takes about 20 minutes, varying based on their size. You’ll know they’re done when you can effortlessly insert a knife into them.
2. In a big pan with a thick bottom placed over medium heat, combine the melted butter and olive oil, then stir in the onions along with some salt and black pepper.
3. Sauté the onions for a minimum of 20 minutes and up to 40 minutes until they become soft and golden-brown.
4. Take out one-fourth of the onions from the pan and set them aside for garnishing later.
5. Incorporate the stock, vinegar, and all the potatoes into the pan. Using either a potato masher or the rounded end of a wooden spoon, crush the potatoes to expose more of their soft insides—this aids in thickening the soup.
6. Keep cooking over low heat for 15 more minutes, letting some of the liquid decrease and become thicker.
7. Mix in all the diced dill along with half of the sauerkraut.
8. Serve in bowls, garnished with a spoonful of sour cream, a scattering of chopped chives, the remaining sauerkraut, the saved caramelized onions, and an extra grind of black pepper.
Sesame cookies with dark chocolate and halva
Crispy, crunchy, savory, and sweet—this cookie encompasses everything. For those who haven’t experienced halva yet, I strongly suggest seeking it out—a delectable sesame confection known for its somewhat crumbly and tender consistency. Once incorporated into this cookie, it transforms into a wonderfully caramelized, nutty, and chewy component. Halva is available in most large supermarkets.
supermarkets
, but if not available, you’ll find plenty of them at any Middle Eastern store. They can also be cooked directly from their frozen state, so I recommend keeping a box in your freezer for easy access.
Makes
: 20 cookies
Ingredients
:
250g unsalted butter, softened
300g light brown sugar
1 egg
200g halva, diced (150g for the cookie mixture, 50g for topping)
2 teaspoons of vanilla bean paste
250g plain flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon of sea salt, plus additional for sprinkling
150g oats (use 100g as oat flour and keep 50g whole)
1 tablespoon of sesame seeds, with additional seeds for rolling
100 grams of high-quality dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
Equipment
:
Stand mixer
Method
:
1. Using a stand mixer, cream the butter with the brown sugar until they blend smoothly. Incorporate the egg, followed by 150g of diced halva and the vanilla extract, mixing thoroughly after each ingredient is added and ensuring you scrape the edges of the bowl accordingly.
2. In a different bowl, mix together the flour, baking soda, salt, both types of oats, sesame seeds, and chopped chocolate.
3. Incorporate the dry ingredients into the wet mixture and blend until a dough is formed. Then, divide the cookie dough into 20 evenly sized portions, approximately 55 grams each — using an ice cream scooper ensures uniformity in their size.
4. Roll each cookie ball in more sesame seeds. Using the remaining 50g of halva, press a piece of halva into the top of each cookie and put them onto a lined baking tray that fits into your freezer.
5. Place the formed cookies in the freezer for at least one hour, or until you’re prepared to bake them. These frozen shapes can be stored in the freezer for as long as three months without losing quality.
6. Once you’re prepared for baking, set your oven to preheat at 180°C (160 fan)/gas mark 4 and prepare a lined baking sheet. Ensure the cookies are spaced adequately apart as they will expand up to twice their original size during baking; then finish off by adding a light touch of flaky sea salt atop each cookie.
7. Bake for 12 minutes, then remove the tray from the oven and firmly bang it against a solid surface — this step reduces air bubbles in the cookies, giving them a delicate, wrinkled appearance. Return the tray to the oven for an additional 3 minutes.
8. Leave to cool completely on the tray, or until they are cool and firm enough to handle – there is nothing quite like a warm cookie fresh from the oven.
Recipes from ‘In For Dinner’ by Rosie Kellett (Square Peg, £27.00)
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