A rainbow momentarily appeared over Singapore, but I was the sole observer, standing by myself at the back of our train’s open caboose as we moved north across the Strait of Johor, distancing ourselves from the Lion City.
It was just a fleeting glimpse. A bank of dark clouds started gathering and swiftly enveloped us as we entered Malaysia, unleashing yet another deluge of rain and streaks of lightning that pierced through the humid air and brought forth an unpleasant odor from the polluted straits.
Nearly 94 years ago, Henri Fauconnier, the French author and rubber magnate, articulated
Malaysia
As a location where, even when “the sky rejoices and pours down copious rains, gloomy days never occur.”
It held true for that particular day too, even with the prevailing weather conditions. As I observed the guests embarking onto the Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O Express), they were all wearing expressions of excitement and looking forward eagerly to their voyage deep into the heart of the Malay Peninsula.
The sole remaining sleeper train in operation within Malaysia.
Initially, we journeyed through the lush central highlands towards Taman Negara National Park, followed by traveling down the west coast to the historical enclaves of Butterworth and Georgetown, located on Penang Island. Ultimately, over four days and three nights, we planned to follow our original route back to the misty allure of Singapore.
The E&o Express previously operated from Singapore to Bangkok until it ceased operations in 2020. In 2024, Belmond relaunched it for multiday excursions within Malaysia, making it currently the sole option of this kind.
sleeper train
The Intercontinental Express continues to operate overnight, running from the Thai-Malay border northward to Bangkok.
Moreover, similar to all things Belmond, the cost – at $4,650 (€4,110) – is steep, significantly pricier compared to Malaysia’s national KTMB trains running on identical tracks. However, this premium provides an unparalleled degree of luxury and service that surpasses even what past Malaysian sultans could have imagined experiencing.
The wooden-paneled carriages exude warmth and coziness, while the private suites offer ample and comfortable spaces. My state cabin came equipped with a chair and recliner that both transformed into individual beds; additionally, the ensuite featured a marble washbasin alongside a spacious shower complete with its very own delightful and charming attendant.
As we moved off, different individuals gathered at the observation deck—a mix of Australian legal experts and investment gurus, American creatives, as well as Malaysian real estate tycoons—all drawn in by what was right next door.
bar car
(One out of two on the train). Everyone was impeccably dressed, as the E&O Express seemed to encourage a particular level of sophistication amongst its travelers.
As promised in the brochure, “an ambiance of casual sophistication” demands attire that is both stylishly informal and subtly elegant.
Malaysia is a blend of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures, and its cuisine combines these various culinary traditions with a hint of Provence flair. For our initial meal, we had kimchi niçoise paired with a crunchy udon galette, followed by a coconut blancmanger topped with Nyonya chendol as dessert. Daily activities included performances such as magic shows, live jazz from a trio, and even karaoke nights at the bar. Guests were also free to use the ship’s spa facilities or play with a traditional mahjong set.
Many opted instead to gather on the viewing platform, allowing the breeze to dispel the warmth and waft the aroma of damp foliage and smoldering timber their way.
Elephants, tigers, and bears at Taman Negara National Park
In the early hours, we reached Merapoh, a place known for towering gray boulders emerging from the jungle—a popular spot for cave exploration. As some travelers opted for caving adventures, others sought out photo opportunities, while a few enjoyed a relaxing riverside spa experience. Personally, I decided to join a smaller party venturing into Taman Negara National Park for an adventure.
wildlife spotting
.
Perched at the rear of a pickup truck, I was seated next to our local guide, Nizam Khairun, an exuberantly passionate birder. He raised his smartphone and displayed images of hornbills, eagles, and a vibrant crimson and azure species known as the Garnet Pitta.
“Bird enthusiasts travel worldwide just for this,” he remarked, extending his phone towards me. As we drove beneath an emerald archway, the leaves overhead intertwined like fluttering lashes covering the path, while palm trees bordered our way, resembling verdant water jets. Before long, we encountered a group of photographers poised to spot a magnificent great argus.
“Hold on,” Nizam said, leaping out of the truck and heading towards the bushes with a clucking sound. A minute later, he emerged again, closely trailed by an argus, a bird reminiscent of a Victorian-era peacock, adorned with its lengthy, grayish-brown tail feathers.
I refer to him as my brother,” Nizam stated, prompting the photographers to snap their cameras furiously. “Our acquaintance dates back to when he first emerged from his shell.
The foliage in Taman Negara is dense, making wildlife observations challenging. Amidst the tangled network of trees and ferns, you can find elephants, gaur which resemble cows, tapirs, and sun bears, along with some of the dwindling number of Malayan tigers. Although we didn’t manage to spot these creatures, distant hoots from gibbons filled the air, tracks left by elephants marred the crimson mud, and a tree bore marks where a sun bear attempted to extract honeycomb from an embedded beehive.
Georgetown, once a colonial outpost, has transformed into a hub for culture.
Later that day, we moved our train out of Merapoh and headed back south through extensive palm oil and rubber tree plantations. During the night, we went by Kuala Lumpur unnoticed (which was fortunate since its main central railway station has been decommissioned). Over morning tea, we observed the suburbs of Butterworth gradually merge with the urban area as we approached the heart of the city.
A hired ferry awaited our arrival to transport us to Penang Island, where we dedicated the morning to discovering the historic colonial district of Georgetown. We also arranged for chauffeured trishaws—these three-wheeled bicycle cabs—and each person received a town map along with the liberty to explore at their own discretion.
Georgetown has reinvented itself from a colonial administrative center into a focal point for culture and arts.
Malaysia
I dedicated my time exploring the nearby street art, where every mural and metal rod sculpture depicted scenes from the island’s history: rickshaw pullers, shoeshine boys, colonial policemen, and royalty being transported on palanquins.
Malaysia hangs like a tightly furled lily bud from the cluster of Asia, and as twilight descended, we glided smoothly along its western edge, heading towards Singapore. The journey seemed to end before it was time, passing with ease and elegance yet far too swiftly. However, even the finest journeys come to an abrupt close sooner than desired.
The author was a guest of Belmond’s Eastern and Oriental Express.
